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From the Editor
Aug 3, 2009
10:48 AM
The Editor's Blog

Did Somebody Say Food Cart?

Wedged between two buildings on Cooper Street is the latest and tiniest addition to the Aspen culinary scene: Dark Horse Alley. Unlike the big wigs that surround the quaint space—Boogies, Paradise Bakery and Little Annie’s—this spanking-new venue is carving out its own forté.

A black wiry fence and cobblestone path lead to a fancy food cart with a European twist, serving up flaky breakfast and lunch items from dawn ‘til dusk. The ambience is certainly appealing, with flowers crawling up the surrounding stone walls, a vintage Coca-Cola machine holding thirst quenchers in cool glass bottles and tiny hanging white lights. And it’s all within fifteen square feet, give or take a few.

The hidden eatery (owned and operated by mother-daughter team Wendy and LuLu Smith) has been open for two weeks, barely, but it is already known to curious locals and keen-eyed passerbyers. The friendly pair has created a one-of-a-kind spot that’s drawing more and more people in by the hour. But is the uniqueness enough to keep hungry hipsters coming back for more?

The fare appears to match the décor, with simple breakfast pastries, fresh baguette sandwiches and chocolates courtesy of the Aspen Sugar Company (aspensugarcompany.com). The price isn’t too steep either. 

The baguettes are not to the level of those made at the Franck Thirion French Pastry & Café. (In fairness, you'd have to go to France to get a baguette or croissant the caliber of Thirion's.) But the Smith girls are stuffing them in some creative ways: Brie with chutney, brie with olive tapanade, plain old butter and more. It amounts to another quick, inexpensive lunch option in town, a nice alternative to the Big Wrap.

The curiously named "Frozen Ponies," sugary ice-blended juice drinks, are for those with a serious sweet tooth, and the French press coffee is beyond superb. Arguably the best in town. Sipping a cup with one (or two) of Dark Horse’s homemade brownies is a little piece of heaven. The “ungoddessly good granola” is also made from scratch, living up to the name, and amazing with a spot of milk or yogurt.

And you will no doubt feel like an insider the minute you step into the secluded alley and plop into one of those heavy, wrought iron chairs (there are only two). From there, it doesn’t take much time to become a regular.

Winter will likely close Dark Horse until next summer. Unless, that is, Smith finds an indoor location (fingers crossed). Until then, we’re enjoying the escape to Paris in the form of cobblestone and strong espresso. Did somebody say staycation?

Dark Horse Alley, 527 E. Cooper Street, 970-319-2068